For anyone serious about collecting swords, understanding the correct terminology is essential. This is not just a matter of sounding informed. Precision in language reflects precision in knowledge. Whether you are handling antiques, replicas, or newly forged blades, knowing the right terms will help you assess, describe, and preserve your collection with care.
Basic Sword Anatomy
Most swords, regardless of origin, share a common structure. Learning these foundational terms is a good place to start.
Blade
The sharpened metal portion used for cutting, thrusting, or slashing. Blades may be straight or curved, double-edged or single-edged, depending on their cultural and functional context.
Edge
The cutting side of the blade. A sword may have one or two edges, and the sharpness or wear of the edge significantly affects its condition and value.
Point
The tip of the blade, used primarily for thrusting. Some swords have acute, reinforced points suited for piercing armour, while others are broader and shaped for slashing.
Fuller
A groove running along the flat of the blade, often misnamed a “blood groove.” Its true function is to reduce the blade’s weight without sacrificing strength.
Ricasso
The unsharpened section of the blade just above the guard. Present on many European swords, it allows for safer handling during certain grips.
Hilt Components
The hilt refers to the entire handle assembly. Each part contributes to the sword’s balance, handling, and control.
Grip
The part held in the hand, often covered with leather, wood, wire, or cord. It must be secure and comfortable for prolonged use.
Guard or Crossguard
A bar or curved piece between the blade and grip that protects the wielder’s hand. Designs vary widely. For example, medieval cruciform guards differ greatly from the swept hilts of Renaissance rapiers.
Pommel
A counterweight at the end of the grip, used to balance the blade. In many cases, the pommel is also decorative or features symbolic designs.
Types of Swords and Their Features
Collectors often refer to specific types of swords by name, but without understanding the core elements, such classifications can be superficial.
Single-edged vs Double-edged
A single-edged sword, such as a katana or falchion, has only one cutting edge. A double-edged sword, like an arming sword or longsword, is sharpened on both sides.
Curved vs Straight
Curved blades are usually better suited for slashing from horseback, as seen in sabres or shamshirs. Straight blades are typically intended for thrusting and precision cuts, common in European and Roman swords.
Tang
The tang is the extension of the blade that goes into the grip. A full tang runs the length of the handle and provides better durability. Many cheap reproductions use partial or rat-tail tangs, which can break under stress.
Cultural and Historical Terms
Recognising terms from different sword traditions can help avoid common misconceptions.
Katana / Tachi / Wakizashi
Japanese blades are often confused or mislabelled. The katana is worn edge-up and has a curved single edge, while the tachi is more curved and traditionally worn edge-down. The wakizashi is a shorter companion blade.
Gladius / Spatha
The Roman gladius is short and designed for stabbing in close quarters. The spatha, which came later, was longer and influenced early medieval sword design.
Ulfberht
A term often stamped on early medieval Frankish swords, sometimes misunderstood as a sword type. In reality, it is a mark of high-quality steel used by certain smiths.
Rapier / Smallsword
A rapier is a slender, sharply pointed sword designed for thrusting in duels. It should not be confused with the smallsword, a later evolution with even finer lines, popular in 18th-century dress.
Descriptive Features for Collectors
Knowing how to describe a sword’s condition and form is key when buying, selling, or documenting pieces.
Patina
A surface film that develops over time on steel or brass. In antiques, a stable patina can be desirable, as it reflects age and authenticity.
Pitting
Small corrosive marks caused by rust. While some minor pitting is expected on antique blades, deep pitting can affect structural integrity.
Etching / Engraving
Etching is done using acid to create designs, while engraving is carved directly into the metal. Both are used for decoration or identification, but their authenticity must be verified in antique pieces.
Reproduction
Not all swords are original. Many replicas are functional, and some are museum-grade. Reproductions should always be clearly labelled to avoid misleading buyers or collectors.
The Seven Swords takeaway
Mastering the correct terminology is more than academic. It allows collectors to engage with confidence in discussions, auctions, preservation, and historical research. By learning and using these terms accurately, a collector gains not just credibility but a deeper appreciation for the craft and history behind each blade.
